Christmas and the New Year

After a long period of problems with internet and various exams and coursework deadlines along with all the feasting I've finally been able to set aside a couple hour to update my blog!

Since my term at uni finished I have had may fair share of relaxation time and overindulgence. Coupled with a better thumb I could focus on an all out siege of climbing as soon as I got back into the shire. It was time to crush. Or so I hoped. The main plan was to come back and crack out Avenged at Anstey's cove with my main bru Adam the best dressed man this side of the equator Farney and steevvvvaaannnnsss. However the weather for pretty much the whole time I was back was not on our side but still not was all lost and a couple of attempts where to be had!

Throughout my first term at Uni I had had the plan of improving my power and general bouldering strength as it is  huge weakness for myself! That and the fact I cant stick at it long enough and end up lapping circuits instead. This was the main thing that was stopping me pulling through the crux on Avenged so hoping that my efforts had paid off we set to work. To put you out of any suspense (if there has been any created) I didn't happen. The day where I felt strongest a crucial crimper was wet and every time I tried pulling off of it I popped straight off of it. Annoying yes but in isolation the crux went pretty well so the bouldering must have paid off! But I will have yee yet but it will have to wait until next time I'm back!

A very filling Christmas Dinner

What I love about Christmas though is the eating incredible amounts of food and chocolate and not even worry about the consequences! But the best part of the food is definitely the roast dinners! Every year since we were (thankfully) converted out of vegetarianism and nut roast <It is a real thing, Mum has cooked a mean roast with all the trimmings which always takes the best part of half a day to cook and about 30 minutes to guzzle down! But if have grandparents like mine you can expect another two to follow on consecutive days! But this year I had the added bonus of dining with Miss Rumbelow and Stevaaaannnsss (aka Maxine Hodges) and co at the very posh bath residence. It was an excellent meal but the best part was definitely the roasties.....as I peeled the potato's

All in all Christmas and New Year was a great laugh and even though the novelty has worn off slightly from when I was 12 its still and fab time to get mildly drunk and generally relax. Oooh and of course being back in Chudleigh I has the added bonus of going to the hole everyday for about a week much to the dismay to my fingertips and the bouldering mat.

After a cold dip in the sea for the boys on New Years day I stood on the beach and reflected on the year that had passed and the goals that I had fulfilled and not quite managed. These including Leading two E6's (whoremoans and  Obstreperous Both at Chudleigh) onsighting fairly consistently at E4 ish range. Climbing 7c sport and bouldering V6. All of which I am extremely pleased with but this year the idea is to push these up again. I've got a couple of routes in mind and also a possible new line (possible) which need to be had I think. But generally I couple love to have climbed at least 5 more E5's and E6's and maybe a couple of E7's if my testicles are big enough! Along with this I'm hoping to crack that 7c limit and push on into the 8's soon as but that's me being optimistic so we will see! With optimism my resolution this year is NOT TO DRINK. For a student I'm doing pretty well 12 days in. Lets see how long that lasts

Happy new year to all anyway and hope you all have a brilliant 2012 even if the world does end. Looks like you all better get on it fast!!!

Wet Peak Trip

Well I got back safe and sound from the North (just about) with sore fingers and a nice set of wet and muddy clothes to wash.

As many of you know I was extremely excited about missioning it into the peak district and slaying some "ard" problems which I have read and drooled about all these years. However the weather had a different interest should we say. As I got out of the bus with what seemed like 15 zombies from the uni climbing club we weren't greeted with the friendliest of welcomes to say the least. It was gloomy and dark with a horrible bit of that climbing repellent otherwise known as rain. This was a massive disappointment but I wasn't going to give in that easily! So we embarked on the march up to Stanage Plantation. Home of some narley ass problems and super cool arêtes. As I wondered around the crag by myself I stood in awe under a perfectly formed arête. I knew instantly what is was without without looking in the guide book. Ulysses' bow. Last year I got Jerry Moffatt's biography for my birthday and apart from the being the first book I had read and really enjoyed it had inspired me so much it had changed the way I thought about climbing and my motivation! If you've read it, I'm not talking about being the best in the world (although it does cross my mind sometimes) but the times had when you're out with friends enjoying the scenery and the route, topped with obvious climbing banter. 

As I stood for a good couple of minutes recalling epics at Cornwall and the moors and indeed some not to be mentioned moments at Chudleigh it suddenly hit me. I am not going to be doing this today. It was wet and cold so I turned around and went in search of some other high prized routes and problems still with a big smile on my face. 

I searched high and low for various things and made a pretty impressive morning of route finding. Sounds strange really that climbing the routes wasn't the only part of it. For me, seeing as it was piss wet, just finding them and looking at it was enough. And some people wonder why I want to go into geology. Before my search ended I went and looked at Brad Pit, a famous V10/font 7c. An iconic problem with hundreds of different videos on the net. The one in which stuck out is the one with Ben Moon doing it. His exact words are "Brad Pit, well is hard but its not that hard". Well I can tell you now it is. Even though I didn't try it, it felt hard by just looking at it! 

Eventually I got back with the group and headed of with Hutch in a search of any dry line possible. We eventually found a dry ish Hvs up "some" crack line...I cant for the life of me remember what it was called but basically it's a big crack line which meanders left to the top of the crag at about 16 meters. Hutch said he would go first romped his way but the first 10 foot and placed some gear. This is where I knew it was going to get interesting when he turned around and looked slightly confused at me. When people do this it generally means the gear isn't that good, but with a hitch he carried on across the break to another placement at about 20 foot. His head turned and I was greeted by the same face as I had seen from the first piece. Surely he wouldn't carry on if the gear was "that" bad I thought to myself as he stood up and began to lay back the last part. Either that or he doesn't think he's going to fall! Oh god spoke to soon. As I jumped backwards re enacting the belay used to stop someone hitting the floor from the top more on the Indian Face all I heard was 

"Shit shit shit shit shit shit shit shit"! 

Then silence for a second

Then 

"Well the gear held" 

I looked at Hutch hanging there laughed and lowered him off and had a good old laugh about what had happened. I went up the route afterwards and examined him gear and could really see what the problem was when he placed it! (Thinking back to clipping old rusty seapegs)

After that we decided to call it a day as the weather got worse and I swear at one point looking into the wind was like looking into a burst from a machine gun! So indoors called and the edge got a pretty good seeing to! 

Just before we left Stanage I had a quick probe of Deliverance which was mainly dry ish and cant wait to get back to try it in better conditions along with all the other beauties in which the peak has to offer.

Cheers All

Jack