Since I last wrote nothing new has really happened on the climbing front. Another comp came and went with an O.k performance earning a respectable 10th place! My goal for this comp was to come in the top 10 so I was fairly pleased with the result. A quick trip to Cheddar yesterday
Whilst I have been down the wall I have found myself trending more towards trying to finish projects and conquer the red 7b circuit with little success. However these last couple of weeks I have tried to alter my usual way of doing things and adopt a training programme my friend sent to me. So far it has proved useful and I have followed it fairly well with only a few slip ups. However I am finding it a lot more intensive and demanding which is excellent!
Since hurting my finger a couple of years ago I have found myself trying to hold the majority of things open handed with the only exception of the smaller holds or when it really counts. This has been good and I have found myself quite fortunate in being injury free in the hand department! Until recently.
The training programme focuses on raw power and strength for a few of the days with a mixture of endurance and core work for the rest. This means for the power days I find myself underneath nine wooden rungs gurning away with the (apparent) intention of breaking my fingers at the joint. Improvement I tell myself comes at a price, however this seems more like a torture you might see in a Bond movie (If Telly Savalas was 8b crusher).
The price I seem to be paying Is extended resting and a bit of pain in my ring finger. At bit of a bummer but with the added rest it seems I am able to crack on with my work......Or procrastinate massively. So for now when I say "I'll have a day off" It means exactly that, not the usual of getting the rope out and trying to work out the moves on some desperate number in the gorge and then complain to my flat mates that my hand hurts!
Enough complaining as I have a quality weekend to look forward to If the weather holds, fingers crossed!
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Friday, 2 March 2012
Wednesday, 8 February 2012
Comp Time
These last couple of weeks have been uber productive for me on the climbing front! I (finally) got a member ship at The Climbing Academy in Bristol for some much needed power and strength training. This has been going pretty well but has also become a bit of an addiction. I seem to find myself there most evenings gurning around the orange problems with little success and a lot of effort. However this is good because A, my power is ridiculously poor and B and not actually much of a fan of bouldering but it seems to have me hooked in the challenge!
With my new found habit I thought it be about time to put my skills to the test in one of the competitions that was being held there. Seeing as I hate competition with a passion I thought it was high time to conquer this fear and give it my best shot. There were 20 problems from all across the grade in an onsight format giving the added pressure of doing well first go without making any stupid mistakes.
All went well in the end and earned a respectable score of 958/1000 which is pretty decent result considering I'm a major waddy wad kins when it comes to comps and bouldering. But the main reason for going was to see where my current performance is at at the moment and from here what to do to improve.
Goal setting is a real issue of mine, I always seem to be able to have something in mind work towards and I focus on that until its done. Once that's happened it takes me bloody yonks to re accept another challenge and I think that's my main downfall when it comes to pushing my grade.
With goals in mind its about a month until the British University and Collage Sports (BUCS) competition so the plan is to get strong as an ox and hopefully throw so moves on the day! In the mean time I am working towards a fairly nails 7b monster circuit at the tca. I've only seen hand full of people do parts of it and it seems to be a huge stamina outing! I got in about two parts at the moment but I've got quite a way to and I think its about time I started using my feet again!
Anyway the wall calls for some more Beasting cheers all
Jack
With my new found habit I thought it be about time to put my skills to the test in one of the competitions that was being held there. Seeing as I hate competition with a passion I thought it was high time to conquer this fear and give it my best shot. There were 20 problems from all across the grade in an onsight format giving the added pressure of doing well first go without making any stupid mistakes.
All went well in the end and earned a respectable score of 958/1000 which is pretty decent result considering I'm a major waddy wad kins when it comes to comps and bouldering. But the main reason for going was to see where my current performance is at at the moment and from here what to do to improve.
Goal setting is a real issue of mine, I always seem to be able to have something in mind work towards and I focus on that until its done. Once that's happened it takes me bloody yonks to re accept another challenge and I think that's my main downfall when it comes to pushing my grade.
With goals in mind its about a month until the British University and Collage Sports (BUCS) competition so the plan is to get strong as an ox and hopefully throw so moves on the day! In the mean time I am working towards a fairly nails 7b monster circuit at the tca. I've only seen hand full of people do parts of it and it seems to be a huge stamina outing! I got in about two parts at the moment but I've got quite a way to and I think its about time I started using my feet again!
Anyway the wall calls for some more Beasting cheers all
Jack
Tuesday, 13 December 2011
Since coming back from the peak district I've been feeling a bit under the weather which you could say is good timing as the heavens opened the other night and it hasn't stopped since. This has kind of throw my climbing off a bit, with the cave now completely inaccessible and the gorge constantly wet I have found myself wasting away at the hands of Uni work and my laptop.
The other things is the fear of hurting my thumb any more. Over the last couple of weeks I've felt a slight tweek in my right thumb and haven't been hurling myself at those hideous pinches and in fact anything long. This has influenced an extended rest this week which I think is for the best.
For me resting is a huge battle as I cant sit still for more than 5 minutes (unless I have my laptop) so I decided that I need something else to do to fill the time. Now seeing as I have been focusing on raw power and burlyness I was pretty keen to get back into stamina mode. But without gully wall what was I to do!! So It was about time to take a completely different tac altogether and out came the road bike.
Through the summer I had started cycling quite a lot and had felt it make a bit of a difference towards my climbing. As a few of you know I cycle to Uni most mornings which is a 10 mile round trip but I was hungry to sink my teeth into a absolute mission ride. Friday was the day to start and test myself so out I went out and without any real idea of where I was going and kept going. I was out for over 4 hours and played the game whenever I saw a sign for Bristol I went the opposite way. This was all very well and good until I found myself nakered and belting it along the A38 to get back before it got too dark!! All in all it was a great ride with some beautiful scenery and the added spice of a couple of cows crossing! But my god tiring!
With this added theme I headed on back to the shire to stay with my grandparents for a couple of days. The only problem here in East Devon is that the only rock availible is chossy sandstone cliffs, great if your a budding drytooler with not enough dollar to climb something somewhere cold, so it looks like I'm going to be running until I'm back in the safe arms of Gully wall and Pixies hole!
Whats nice is that after a tiring 6 and a half mile run I can relax without any hassle being brought mince pies and a sneaky G and T before dinner so I think I'll make the most of the next couple of days!
Cheers All
The other things is the fear of hurting my thumb any more. Over the last couple of weeks I've felt a slight tweek in my right thumb and haven't been hurling myself at those hideous pinches and in fact anything long. This has influenced an extended rest this week which I think is for the best.
For me resting is a huge battle as I cant sit still for more than 5 minutes (unless I have my laptop) so I decided that I need something else to do to fill the time. Now seeing as I have been focusing on raw power and burlyness I was pretty keen to get back into stamina mode. But without gully wall what was I to do!! So It was about time to take a completely different tac altogether and out came the road bike.
Through the summer I had started cycling quite a lot and had felt it make a bit of a difference towards my climbing. As a few of you know I cycle to Uni most mornings which is a 10 mile round trip but I was hungry to sink my teeth into a absolute mission ride. Friday was the day to start and test myself so out I went out and without any real idea of where I was going and kept going. I was out for over 4 hours and played the game whenever I saw a sign for Bristol I went the opposite way. This was all very well and good until I found myself nakered and belting it along the A38 to get back before it got too dark!! All in all it was a great ride with some beautiful scenery and the added spice of a couple of cows crossing! But my god tiring!
With this added theme I headed on back to the shire to stay with my grandparents for a couple of days. The only problem here in East Devon is that the only rock availible is chossy sandstone cliffs, great if your a budding drytooler with not enough dollar to climb something somewhere cold, so it looks like I'm going to be running until I'm back in the safe arms of Gully wall and Pixies hole!
Whats nice is that after a tiring 6 and a half mile run I can relax without any hassle being brought mince pies and a sneaky G and T before dinner so I think I'll make the most of the next couple of days!
Cheers All
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